RELAXERS AND HEALTHY HAIR... IT IS POSSIBLE! (PART 1)

DIFFERENT TYPES OF RELAXERS

***Disclaimer, I am not a scientist or work in the medical field!  Studies have been done that state that chemical relaxers can be harmful to a person.  USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!  However, the information provided below is for reading purposes only and to assist with providing basic information.  I am in no way telling you what to do or how to do it. This is all my opinion!


Despite what SOME have to say within the hair community, you can have healthy relaxed hair.  I know studies have been done that state chemical relaxers are harmful to your body; however, people still use them.  I am just providing this information to help you be informed and lessen the damage that you may receive by using the incorrect relaxer for your hair type.  You just have to take care of it and know what type of relaxer is best for your hair texture and lifestyle.   If you get the incorrect type, you can either under process or over process your hair.  Under processed relaxed hair can cause damage because you will have two different textures in your hair.  Some sections of your hair may be relaxed straight and others will still have texture.  Over processed relaxed hair is damaged because the hair is in an extremely weakened state and can break off or shed badly and those are just some of the things that can happen.  There are countless other things that could happen.  But lets discuss the different types of relaxers so that you can be better informed.

There are three main types of relaxers.  They are:

Sodium Hydroxide (most common)
Calcium Hydroxide
Ammonium Thioglycolate

Ammonium Thioglycolate

I will start with Ammonium Thioglycolate or what most people call a soft perm, jherri curl, or curl reformation.  Ammonium thioglycolate breaks down the hair strand in order for it to be reshaped around a perm rod to form a curl.  This is not considered that strong of a relaxer.  It is considered a relaxer because it does straighten the hair for it to be reformed into another curl pattern.  It is a two step process for this type of relaxer.  A relaxer creme is applied to the hair to straighten it just like a regular relaxer.  Once the hair has been straightened, the hair is then rolled on the preferred size perm rod that is best for the type of curl that the client wants.  Once the whole head has been rolled, a solution of hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate is applied while the hair is still rolled on perm rods to neutralize this type of relaxer.  This helps the curl pattern to form and remain, even after the perm rod is removed.  Many consider this a mild relaxer.  I say if not handled properly, you can damage your hair.  

Many people liked this type of service because the hair was very moisturized due to the person spraying curl activator spray or using curl activator creme on their hair.  Some would even put on curl activator creme and then wear a plastic cap to lock in that moisture.  Now the reason why I know so much about this relaxer is that I had one of these back in the 7th grade.  LOL  Yes, don't laugh at me, but I had a drip drip. (that is what some called it too because some people kept their hair so moisturized it would drip activator. LOL)  That's why some people would say, "follow the drip!"

Calcium Hydroxide

Calcium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide is considered a no lye relaxer.  This relaxer is what many stylist use on clients that have sensitive scalps.  However, this relaxer still can damage hair if not used properly.  This relaxer has to be mixed with an activator solution to be used that contain the chemical guanidine hydroxide.  The quanidine hydroxide and the calcium hydroxide mix together to create a chemical reaction to straighten the hair.  

When I used to get relaxers, these were the ones that my mother used on my sister and I.  They usually came in a box and usually said relaxer kit somewhere on the box.  The kit had gloves, the calcium hydroxide creme, the quanidine hydroxide liquid solution, wooden stick, neutralizing shampoo, and a packet of conditioner.  The person would combine the creme and the liquid together and stir with the wooden stick until smooth and the liquid has completely combined with the creme and then commenced to apply to the hair roots. 

With this type of relaxer, it can leave calcium build up on the hair.  Over time, this can dry the hair out and cause damage.  The hair has to be clarified every so often and deep conditioned with a moisturizing conditioner to help counter the dryness. The best type of clarifying shampoo is a chelating shampoo.  It helps to remove mineral deposits on the hair.  Once the calcium deposits have been removed, the hair is ready to receive other types of products, like conditioners, moisturizing shampoos or protein.  I can say that even though my mother used this type of relaxer the most on my sister and I, our hair was at its healthiest.  I think it was because my mother only relaxed our hair 2-3 times a year, if that.  We didn't receive them often because she felt like we didn't need them and she didn't want to damage our hair.

Sodium Hydroxide (most common)

Sodium hydroxide relaxers are the most common relaxers. These are the types that most licensed stylist use.  They use the others too, but this one is used a lot.  This type of relaxer is called a lye relaxer.  It can be used on all types of textured hair, for example, wavy, curly or coily hair. I use these types of relaxer in my day to day services.  I prefer these too because they do not have the calcium build up.  This relaxer comes ready to use.  There is no mixing involved. 

As with all these relaxers, they can all cause damage, but in my personal opinion, this one can do the most damage if not trained properly on how to use it and use it with care.  This relaxer can straighten the hair quickly.  If not monitored, timed and handled properly, the hair can become over processed and can even come out.  This relaxer can also dry your hair out, but not because of calcium build up.  This relaxer does not have calcium in it.  

Before selecting a relaxer, perform an assessment of your hair and scalp.  You will need hair that is somewhat in good condition. What I mean by that, is that the hair is not breaking off or shedding excessively.  There are not abrasions, irritations, or open wounds on the scalp.  If you noticed any of these, then do not perform a relaxer service.  Once you have decided that your hair is okay to receive a relaxer service, now you need to decide based on your texture, density, and how straight you want your hair.  I recommend going to a professional for this part.  They can help you determine what relaxer service is best for your lifestyle and your hair.  Yes, you have to consider your lifestyle because relaxers require maintenance.  Once you and a professional stylist have performed a consultation concerning your hair and scalp or you have done one on yourself, then it is time to select a relaxer. Depending on how straight or curly you want your hair is going to determine the type of relaxer you select and how long you leave it to process on your hair.  Again, just my opinion, go to a professional for this.

No matter what relaxer you decide to use, you will have to neutralize the hair after the chemical service.  Each relaxer system has their own process of neutralization.  I say follow the manufacturers directions and get educated on your chemical services.  Do your own research before you sit down in a stylist chair.  Make sure you ask questions too.  This will let your stylist know that you are informed.  Also, be willing to participate in the health of your hair.  There will be at home maintenance that will have to be performed to keep your hair healthy after your relaxer service.  Relaxed hair can be healthy, but it takes time and effort on both the stylist and the client's part.  Are you willing to put in the work?

Next:  Maintenance of Relaxed hair (part 2)